As skin gets older, cell turnover naturally slows, and with it, that youthful glow can begin to fade. One of the most effective ways to revive radiance is through exfoliating acids – a trusted skincare solution for mid-life skin and beyond. However, choosing the right formula is essential, as not all acids are kind to mature or sensitive skin. Below, Dr Antoni Calmon, leading aesthetics doctor in Paris and London and founder of PERS Skincare, explains how to use exfoliating acids safely for visible luminosity.
Understanding Exfoliating Acids in Skincare
In skincare, exfoliating acids work by gently loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing fresh cells to surface and supporting healthy turnover, explains Dr Calmon. Alongside traditional alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), modern formulations for mature and sensitive skin now include polyhydroxy acids (PHAs).
- AHAs (such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid) are water-soluble and work on the skin’s surface to improve brightness, texture, and fine lines.
- BHAs (mainly salicylic acid) are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeper and refine pores while reducing congestion.
- PHAs exfoliate at a slower pace and help retain moisture, making them ideal for mature or sensitive skin.
Are Exfoliating Acids Suitable for All Skin Types?
Even those with sensitive skin can benefit from exfoliating acids, particularly PHAs, provided they are used correctly. Dr Calmon warns that the most common error is over-exfoliation, either through frequent use or combining too many active ingredients. This can compromise the skin barrier and trigger irritation. If this occurs, it’s best to stop exfoliating completely until the skin has fully recovered.
How to Use Exfoliating Acids Effectively
Some mild acid exfoliants are formulated for daily use, while stronger options should be spaced out. Always follow individual product guidelines. For a powerful yet gentle weekly routine, Dr Calmon recommends pairing exfoliation with retinol.
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“Once a week, use a product that combines gentle physical exfoliation with an AHA to smooth texture and lift dead cells,” he explains. After rinsing, skin becomes highly receptive. “Applying a 0.3% pro-retinol at this stage stimulates collagen without adding excessive exfoliation.”
This method improves texture and pores while supporting renewal, achieving what Dr Calmon describes as the perfect balance between effectiveness and respect for mature skin.
The Best Exfoliating Acids for Mature Skin
According to Dr Calmon, lactic acid, low-strength glycolic acid, and PHAs are particularly beneficial for mature skin. These ingredients encourage renewal while maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. He suggests leave-on serums or lotions with moderate concentrations, ideally paired with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides.
Top Exfoliating Acids for Mature Skin
Trinny London Tiptoe In
Best for acid beginners, this gentle liquid exfoliant is an ideal introduction to chemical exfoliation. Formulated with two PHAs and a humectant, it refines the skin while locking in moisture. Apply after cleansing, before serum or moisturiser, morning or evening.
- Type of acid: PHA
Skin Rocks The Gentle Acid
This soothing toner is perfect for sensitive or first-time users. A blend of AHAs, including mandelic and lactic acids, alongside the PHA gluconolactone, helps brighten and even skin tone. Glycerin and panthenol calm the skin, leaving it hydrated and radiant.
- Type of acid: AHA, PHA
Paula’s Choice Resist Anti-Aging 10% AHA Exfoliant
Designed for those seeking visible anti-ageing results, this exfoliant combines four AHAs with a small amount of salicylic acid to address sun damage and fine lines. Those with normal skin should begin with twice-weekly use before increasing frequency.
- Type of acid: AHA, BHA
Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment
This serum-style treatment offers all the glow-enhancing benefits of Good Genes in a lactic acid formulation that is easier for mature skin to tolerate. Used overnight, it helps smooth texture, plump the skin, and even tone.
- Type of acid: AHA
Jac Hale Reset Nectar Overnight Face Mask
Trusted by skincare experts, this overnight mask blends lactic acid and pineapple enzymes to gently exfoliate while restoring radiance. A mild tingling sensation is normal and indicates the formula is working. Suitable for most skin types, except highly sensitive skin.
- Type of acid: AHA
NeoStrata PHA Renewal Pads
These pre-soaked pads deliver daily exfoliation while leaving skin soft, smooth, and refreshed. Thanks to the dual exfoliating and hydrating benefits of PHAs, they clarify the complexion without stripping moisture.
- Type of acid: PHA
The Ordinary PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum
Exfoliating acids aren’t just for the face. This gentle lip serum uses PHAs to smooth dry patches, improve texture, and boost hydration, offering instant softness with continued use.
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